The ensuing cultural vacuum facilitated the development of a Japanese culture independent from Chinese fashions. Elements previously lifted from the Tang Dynastic courts developed independently into what is known literally as "national culture" or . The term is used to refer to Heian-period Japanese culture, particularly that of the upper classes.

Women's clothing in the imperial palace became increasingly stylised in the formal , with some elements being abandoned by both male and female courtiers, such as the round-necked and tube-sleeved