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of the depth of water through which it is moving. As deep-water waves enter the shallows and feel the bottom, however, their speed is reduced, and their crests "bunch up", so their wavelength shortens.

Spectral models

Sea state can be described by the sea wave spectrum or just wave spectrum . It is composed of a wave height spectrum (WHS) and a wave direction spectrum (WDS) . Many interesting properties about the sea state can be found from the wave spectra.

WHS

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